The Perfect Diamond ~ Just For You!!

We will not be undersold - bring us your quote from any supplier of polished diamonds, and we will better it! 
It's that simple!
We have the best, most perfect, most perfectly cut, cheapest diamonds available in New Zealand.
   

We have examples of some of the worlds most perfectly cut Polished Diamonds.
Just For You!

The H+A is the most fiery of all polished diamond cuts, displaying a highly characteristic “flicker” and “sparkle”. For many wearers, this character makes it the quintessential polished diamond. The H+A is created for those who prize artistic excellence.

H+A cut stones are exquisitely balanced in three dimensions. There is no room for error. Each must reveal a unique and clearly defined pattern of light when seen through a fire scope: sharp arrows above, and full, rounded hearts below. No Fuzziness.

The H+A cut uses the latest optical insights to create a dazzling architecture of light.
These polished diamonds are created for those who expect the best.

DIAMONDS:

Diamonds are the hardest of all natural substances. They have been cherished for millennia by royalty as the ultimate symbol of power and wealth. People of ancient India found diamonds on the ground after monsoon storms and thought that they were solidified lightning.

In 1477 Maximillian of Austria asked his court astrologer for the stars' suggestion for that "just right" token to bestow on Mary of Burgundy to mark their engagement. You guessed it...the stars suggested a ring with a diamond. And as DeBeers says: boy, did Max and Mary ever start something!

Why a ring? A ring is round, without corner or end, and as such has represented eternity throughout history. The Romans believed that third finger of the hand (left or right, it doesn't matter) was connected to the heart by a vein of love. That finger was reserved for wedding (and engagement) rings. Rings of power (like those worn by the Pope, bishops, royalty) are worn on the index finger.

If you are seeking polished diamonds, interested in polished diamonds, have been offered polished diamonds at "wholesale prices" - anything concerning polished diamonds, then come and see us!  We have more polished diamonds than any other Christchurch Jeweller, and better polished diamonds at direct to you prices.  We obtained a quote for polished diamonds from a local web based dealer of polished diamonds, and found that on comparison, our "normal" price for a polished diamond mounted in Platinum was 12.5% cheaper!  We have sold many polished diamonds at less than 50% of replacement valuation for similar polished diamonds, so if someone selling polished diamonds sends you to us to search out styles, let us show you how we can beat even their best prices for polished diamonds!  For polished diamonds of exceptional quality and value, Via Sollertia for Polished Diamonds!

Prices and variety have never been better for local buyers in relation to world markets.  Even though diamonds, precious gems and metals have become more expensive internationally due to increasing demand, the pressures created by access to global markets have meant an increasingly better deal in real terms for the local consumer.  Worldwide the Jewellery Industry is in good heart, but margins have been hammered for the hand-makers and Independents, while in the chain stores Indian and Chinese sourced goods abound.

Some people have the perception that better bargains may be found on the internet or overseas, but just as good and better can be found at any good manufacturing jeweller who has good market connections, and you also have the assurance of a bricks and mortar establishment and you are supporting your local community.

There are so many pitfalls for the unwary and there is always good reason why things are as they are – that Internet bargain may just prove to be a blunder. Anyone can write their own history on auction sites if they know how, or write glowing but unsubstantiated testimonials on websites to fool the punters”.  “It’s a jungle out there, and there are many predatory practices, so shop around and ask questions – don’t just believe whatever you are told, check it out and verify it – and find someone you feel comfortable dealing with.  There is increasing transparency in the Jewellery Industry worldwide which means a more aware buying public and greater competition.

Ian Williams, owner/operator of Via Sollertia, has an obvious passion for the diamonds and gems that abound in his store. While he will admit that mass-produced jewellery has its place, the sheer beauty and durability of a ring made by a craftsman especially for you is without peer. If you’re feeling the tug to chase so-called “internet bargains,’ Ian Williams has some advice to offer. A recent cost comparison with a locally based purveyor of polished diamonds revealed that Via Sollertia's "regular" price was 12.5% cheaper than the Internet vendor’s so-called "bargain." It’s quality at competitive prices – sounds like a girl’s new best friend to me!

Demand for high-quality commercial grade stones (D-H, VS-SI) will probably continue to grow, and that will mean they will retain value and liquidity. Religion or culture is an important factor; in some cultures clarity = purity = divine powers bringing good luck.

DIAMOND TYPE:

Diamonds can be scientifically classified into 4 types, known as type 1a, 1b, 2a, and 2b. Diamonds are made of carbon, and are extremely pure, but in almost all diamonds there are tiny proportions of other elements, interspersed within the carbon as part of their crystal structure. Type 1 diamonds contain nitrogen. If the nitrogen atoms are clustered together within the carbon lattice, then the diamond is said to be a Type 1a diamond. About 98% of all diamonds are type 1a. Because these diamonds absorb blue light, they can have a pale yellow or brown color. In Type 1b diamonds, the nitrogen atoms are evenly spread out throughout the carbon lattice. These diamonds absorb green light as well as blue light, and have a darker color than type 1a diamonds. Depending on the precise concentration and spread of the nitrogen atoms, these diamonds can appear deep yellow ("canary"), orange, brown or greenish. Less then 0.1% of diamonds belong to Type 1b. Type 2a diamonds contain no, or minuscule amounts of non-carbon elements and are usually colorless. However, an imperfect carbon lattice will make the diamond absorb some light, which will give it a yellow, brown or even pink or red color. 1-2% of diamonds belong to Type 2a. Type 2b contain no nitrogen, but they do contain boron, which absorbs red, orange and yellow light. These diamonds therefore usually appear to be blue, although they can also be grey or nearly colorless. All naturally blue diamonds belong to Type 2b, which makes up 0.1% of all diamonds 

HIGH-TEMPERATURE HIGH PRESSURE DIAMONDS - HTHP:

A small number of otherwise gem-quality stones that possess a brown body color can have their color significantly lightened or altogether removed by HTHP treatment, which was introduced by General Electric in 1999. Diamonds treated this way are all Type IIa and owe their marring color to structural defects that arose during crystal growth, known as plastic deformations, rather than to interstitial nitrogen impurities as is the case in most diamonds with brown color. HTHP treatment is believed to repair these deformations, and thus whiten the stone.(This is probably an incorrect conclusion, the whitening due to destruction of stable vacancy clusters according to one of the researchers). Type Ia diamonds, which have nitrogen impurities present in clusters that do not normally affect body color, can also have their color altered by HTHP. Some synthetic diamonds have also been given HTHP treatment to alter their optical properties and thus make them harder to differentiate from natural diamonds. Pressures of up to 70,000 atmospheres and temperatures of up to 2,000°C are used in HTHP.

Also in 1999, Novatek, a Provo, UT manufacturer of industrial diamonds known for its advancements in diamond synthesis, accidentally discovered that the color of diamonds could be changed by the HTHP process. The company formed NovaDiamond, Inc. to market the process. By applying heat and pressure to natural stones, NovaDiamond could turn brown Type I diamonds light yellow, greenish yellow, or yellowish green; improve champagne Type IIA diamonds several color points, even to white; intensify the color of yellow Type I diamonds; and make some bluish grey Type I and Type IIB colorless. In 2001, however, NovaDiamond quit the HTHP gem business because of what the company's leader, David Hall, characterized as the underhanded practices of dealers. Apparently, dealers were passing off NovaDiamond enhanced gems as naturally colored, and the company refused to be party to this deception.

Definitive identification of HTHP stones is left to well-equipped gemological laboratories, where Fourier transform spectroscopy (FTIR) and Raman spectroscopy are used to analyze the visible and infrared absorption of suspect diamonds to detect characteristic absorption lines, such as those indicative of exposure to high temperatures. Indicative features seen under the microscope include: internal graining (Type IIa); partially healed feathers; a hazy appearance; black cracks surrounding inclusions; and a beaded or frosted girdle. Diamonds treated to remove their color by General Electric are given laser inscriptions on their girdles: these inscriptions read "GE POL", with "POL" standing for Pegasus Overseas Ltd, a partnered firm. It is possible to polish this inscription away, so its absence cannot be a trusted sign of natural color. Although it is permanent, HTHP treatment should be disclosed to the buyer at the time of sale.

FRACTURE FILLING:

Fracture filling is a clarity treatment whereby a glass-like resin is injected into white, often bright feathers or fractures that reach the surface of the diamond. The fractures do not disappear, but the film creates an optical illusion that makes them less visible to the naked eye.

How does it work? Feathers are visible when light reflects off of them; by filling them with a resin, light is able to travel through the feather, making it less visible. Some diamonds may first be laser drilled to reach a feather that does not reach the surface; the filling is then injected through the created channel and sealed.

Fracture filled diamonds can be identified by a trained gemmologist under magnification. The most prominent feature of fracture filled diamonds is the presence of a ‘flash effect’, or bright vivid streaks of colour from the filled fracture. These colour flashes are the result of differences in dispersion between the diamond and the filling material. Other identifying characteristics in the filling are gas bubbles, flow structures, and a ‘crackly’ type of texture in the filling material.

Fracture filling is not a stable diamond treatment; the process is reversible and easily altered by heat. Jewellery repairs, diamond resetting, diamond resetting, diamond cleaning, and even sunlight can erode the filler or darken its colour.

SHAPE:

Round brilliants are the most sparkly and most popular shape; therefore rounds have the highest liquidity should the owner ever need to resell or trade-up.

Various fancy shapes come and go in popularity (and rise and fall in value). Right now, for engagement rings, Princess cuts are hot. Princess cuts have more small sparkles than round diamonds; but below 1-carat, as we age, our ability to discern those tiny more frequent sparkles reduces. Princess cuts are more prone to chipping on the edges during wear and on the points during setting. To be forewarned is to be forearmed.

GRADING REPORT:

When buying a diamond over one carat, it is strongly recommend it be accompanied by an independent grading report (often called a certificate or cert). Grading reports don’t state how much a diamond is worth, they give an independent expert opinion on its quality and can only be issued for a loose stone. These grading institutes do not sell diamonds and the better, stricter labs are recognised worldwide. Diamonds with these reports trade for a few percent more.

But diamond grading is subjective, and therefore never 100 per cent consistent among even the top graders. So different reports on the same diamond, even from the same lab, may vary. Some Israeli labs are seen in the industry to be " soft labs".

Valuations go out of date, but unless the diamond is damaged, the cert is good forever. Store it in a safe place. Do not confuse a cert with a valuation. A valuation is an opinion of the value of the diamond or piece of jewellery and should be done by a registered valuer or experienced jeweller.

FANCY:

The attraction of fancy shapes is largely the appeal of the shape itself. Round brilliant cut diamonds are without doubt more brilliant. Generally speaking, larger fancy shapes cost a little less than round diamonds. This reflects the larger yield cutters get by cutting a fancy shape that “fits” into an unusual shaped piece of diamond rough.

There are no “ideal” fancies, but here are some tips. Expect to see a 'bow-tie effect (usually dark but can be lighter) in the centre of longer/narrower diamonds like marquise, pear and oval diamonds.

Popular length to width ratios are marquise 2:1, heart 1:1, princess 1:1 or square and emerald cut 1.5:1.

Watch out for very thick girdles that result in paying for excessive weight. Also beware of very or extremely thin girdles and especially thin points or ends on marquise and pears. Be especially wary of princess cuts with thin-girdled corners.

It is very easy to see inclusions and lower colour in emerald cut diamonds because they have a less “cluttered” look. The end facets are often very steep and can look very different to the side facets, it is better if they look similar.

CROWN AND PAVILION ANGLES:

In 1992, the authour discovered an inverse relationship between a diamond's crown and pavilion angles (the top and bottom facet angles). Work with diamond cutters has given them new freedom to vary proportions to suit the rough diamond and achieve a beautiful gem.

Many labs use a minimum–maximum crown and pavilion angle-based grading system that penalises cutters who produce such diamonds. Fortunately this has all now changed; the American Gem Society Lab has adopted the inverse proportion approach from June 1, 2005 . The GIA is likely to follow soon.

BRILLIANCE, FIRE and SCINTILLATION:

Brilliance is an essential attribute of a beautiful diamond and has two components: brightness and contrast. Bright diamonds return lots of light from the surroundings back to a “face up” an observer. If light from above leaks out the back of a diamond, naturally it has less brightness. But light that enters and leaves in the face up direction is wasted because the wearer’s head blocks lights from that direction. Diamonds that are too deep or very shallow do this; they have areas that act like a mirror back to the viewer; they return less light and so they have less brightness.

But to be brilliant, a diamond needs more than just brightness from light return. Consider the contrast of a chessboard. Although it has only half the light return of a sheet of white paper, it appears brighter, especially when it is moved because it “scintillates”.

Fire or dispersed light appears as flashes of rainbow colours. One sees more fire in darker environments like restaurants that have just a few point light sources or a flickering candle.

Diamond experts have known for a long time that steep crown angles and small tables (like “old-cut” diamonds) produce more fire. But this combination also produces less light return. Less light return makes it easier to see firey flashes that might otherwise be swamped by bright white sparkles; that one reason is why old-cut diamonds and some fancy cuts appear to have a lot of fire.

Scintillation is the intense sparkles in a diamond as it moves. Black and white sparkles of scintillation show well in flood lit or office lighting environments where fire can be totally absent. Under pin-point or spotlights, fire also adds to scintillation. Ideally, a diamond has many pleasing flashes spread across the surface of the stone, with few dull dead patches.

TABLE SIZE:

Generally, the best looking diamonds have table sizes in the range of 55 to 60 per cent (measured as a percentage of the diameter of the diamond). The size of the table is more important in larger diamonds, say over ½-carat.

Variations in table sizes are less critical than crown and pavilion angles. Diamond cutters tend to cut larger table sizes than we would prefer because cutting larger tables conserves diamond weight.

Larger table diamonds have a better "spread" and can be more brilliant, ie – they return the most light, but have less fire and scintillation than diamonds with smaller tables.

This is because the ability of a diamond to break light into rainbow colours (fire or dispersion) is enhanced by light entering or leaving a diamond at an acute angle. The same principle applies to cut crystal wine glasses and chandeliers. One can probably visualise the Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon CD cover. Technically, dispersion is maximised as light approaches the critical angle between the diamond to air interface.

The resultant burst of colour emerges close to parallel to the surface of the diamond. So if one looks from the front of a diamond one are more likely to observe fire from a crown facet. The smaller the table the bigger the crown facets.

Large tables produce less scintillation because there is less interplay between the crown and pavilion facets. Scintillation is hard to define, it is the black - white - black flashing observed as the diamond is rolled (or the light source moved).

If a diamond had no crown facets at all it would appear very brilliant, but dull and lifeless.

Table sizes over 60 per cent are more affordable and because there is less crown height, they have a larger spread or diameter. One gets a bigger looking rock for less cash. An upper limit of 63 per cent is advisable.

FISH EYE EFFECT:

A fish-eye is a nasty appearance that one can see just inside the table of a diamond. It looks slightly crazed and dull, just like a dead fish’s eye. The fish-eye is a reflection of the girdle (on the opposite side). If the girdle is not polished and is thick, the effect looks like a BIG circular inclusion, and can be as bad as an I3 (P3).

Fish-eyes are more apparent if the pavilion is shallow 39.5°, the table is large; the girdle is thick and not polished. Combinations of these factors worsen the effect. Fish-eyes occur between the following pavilion depths and table sizes: 41 degree pavilion and 72.2 per cent table, 39 degree pavilion and 58.4 per cent table.

Diamonds with these proportions show fish-eyes that require no tilt to see them. If the table gets 1 per cent bigger one sees a 1 per cent more fish-eye.

We down grade fish-eyes in value, a bit like an inclusion, because that is what they look like.

A small amount of tilt to see a fish-eye is acceptable because these diamonds have a very good spread and look very big for the money. If the fish-eye can only be seen with five degrees or more tilt, then the diamond is considered to be ideal.

SPREAD:

How does one know if the diamond one is considering has a good spread? Divide the depth by the diameter and multiply by 100 to calculate the depth percentage.

This should be between 56 per cent and 65 per cent. If the table is small, the depth will need to be larger, and vice-versa. The smaller the depth percentage the larger the spread. Other factors that affect spread are the girdle thickness and crown and pavilion angles.

GIRDLE:

The girdle is the edge of the diamond and this is measured in relative thickness and the type of finish.

Girdles used to be bruted, which meant two diamonds were ground round on each other. This resulted in a dull, waxy appearance. These days most larger diamonds are faceted with lots of very small flat facets or they are polished smooth. A faceted girdle does not improve a diamond’s grade, although a bruted girdle looks much worse if the stone is a fish-eye.

Girdle thickness should ideally be between thin, medium and slightly thick. There is almost always some variation in girdle thickness around a stone, often there are small four thin areas reflecting the original shape of the octahedral rough diamond crystal. These thin areas should not be set in exposed positions because these are often cleavage directions. If a diamond is struck in these directions extremely thin to thin girdles can and will chip.

Diamonds with thick, very thick, or extremely thick girdles weigh considerably more but are still worth buying if the price is right. There may be very small amounts of light loss when viewed in some directions.

While very thin girdles are not recommended for claw set rings, they are fine in pendants and earrings. Even set this way there is always a risk a jeweller will chip the girdle while setting the diamond if it is too thin.

CULET:

The point on the bottom of a diamond's pavilion is called a culet (pronounced que-let or que-lay). During the manufacturing process, the culet is often polished as a flat facet so that it does not get chipped as the other facets are polished. Ideally, the cutter “closes” this facet to a point, but sometimes it remains as a small extra facet.

A diamond behaves as a window if opposing facets are parallel, and this is exactly what happens if the culet is too big. One can see straight out the hole in the bottom. The culet size is listed on a cert and the diamond's culet should be pointed (no culet), very small, small or medium because these are not visible to the naked eye. Large to extremely large culets may be visible to the naked eye and can be treated almost as though they are inclusions.

SYMMETRY:

Symmetry is graded as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor on a GIA report. When polishing a rough diamond, the aim is to cut the heaviest, most valuable diamond possible. This often means polishing a diamond with imperfect symmetry to avoid inclusions or just leaving more weight to achieve a "magic weight" (like 1.00-carat). The polished diamond may be slightly off round, have variations in girdle thickness, tilting of the table, and off centring the table or the culet, etc.

Often symmetry defects in a diamond are the result of great skill, rather than an indication of poor skills.

The diamond images used in this tutorial are mostly symmetrical. But in the real world, very few diamonds are perfectly symmetrical. Symmetry is less important to the overall beauty of a diamond than the critical facet proportions. One may never notice any difference between diamonds with excellent or ideal and very good or good symmetry.

POLISH:

Polish is graded the same way as symmetry by most labs: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor. Just as hardwood takes a better polish than softer timbers, a diamond’s hardness makes it the absolute leader in lustre. Poorly polished facets may reduce the intensity of light reflected from, or refracted into and out of, a diamond. Diamond grading labs assess polish by examining the diamond, facet by facet, with reflected light with a microscope.

A common polish defect is surface grain lines. As they polish each facet, even the most skilled cutter can encounter variations in hardness or grain, just like with timber. The result is very fine polishing lines running across a facet.

These grain lines are very common in pink and fancy-coloured diamonds, but are rarely visible to the naked eye. If one chooses a diamond with SI or VS inclusions, a few microscopic polish lines may be of no relevance. But for those considering buying a flawless diamond, excellent polish may be a consideration.

If the polish is rated as fair or poor, visual performance may be noticeably reduced, or one may be able to see a polish line on the crown or the diamond.

FLOURESCENCE:

About a third of diamonds have fluoresce, like the fluorescent minerals seen in natural history museums, or the novelty shop toys under the black (UV) light. The effect is like a white shirt in a nightclub.

Fluoro can be faint to very strong, and the most common fluorescent colour is blue. As blue is the complimentary colour to yellow, the most common tinted colour in diamonds, blue fluorescence can make yellowish diamonds look white or colourless.

A GIA survey found that fluorescent diamonds were favoured over non-fluoro stones, especially in lower colours, but even in the higher colours (D, E and F) which are often discounted by the trade. Many years ago, colourless fluorescent diamonds were highly-prized and referred to as "blue-white".

But salespeople used the term too loosely for any diamond with fluorescence; "blue-white" usage was outlawed by US trade practices laws.

One "for" argument for discounting fluorescent diamonds is because the GIA lab grading lights emit a small amount of ultra violet light; fluorescent diamonds might be assigned a better colour grade. The “against” argument, although the GIA Gem Trade Lab has not openly discussed the issue, is that UV light is almost always present in viewing environments, so why not grade colour in realistic lighting?

But the most likely reason for fluoro diamond discounting is because of the sad fact that many jewellery salespeople are not able to explain complex phenomena like Fluoro; a Fluoro (or any comments) written on a report makes the diamond harder to sell and thus, worth less!

Imagine this sales-killing explanation: "Fluorescence is visible light emitted by electrons when a diamond is excited by higher energy sources (Ultra Violet light or X-rays)."

Some diamonds have extremely strong fluorescence and appear oily or cloudy. This is bad. But the GIA study found them to be so rare that they were unable to find enough cloudy stones from the 26,010 samples to conduct a study of them. It is advised that one does not buy a Very Strong unless one can actually see the diamond side by side with non-fluorescent diamonds in shaded daylight (which has a lot of UV light).